THE GOOD, THE BAD, AND THE SMELLY: UNFILTERED INSIGHTS FROM OUR FIRST WEEK IN TAMRAGHT

We officially have a week under our belt living in Morocco, and right now I’m writing to you from the lovely co-working space/cafe that sits just five minutes down the hill from where we’re staying in Tamraght. That’s the reality of a a living, working travel: you actually have to work! It’s not bad though, we have plenty of time to go to the beach, explore the souks, and made delicious Moroccan meals when we’re not working and studying.

One thing we know for sure after being here for only a week: Tamraght, Morocco is not the place for us. I can see why it gets the hype it does: there are chic cafes and a strong surfing community. Plenty of little bed-and-breakfast style places that combine yoga and surfing and Moroccan cuisine into an all inclusive package, and the water is incredible, both in temperature and beginner waves!

Jimmy, the first camel I’ve ever had the pleasure of meeting.

However, we’re also finding it to be extremely dirty, dusty, and smelly. I won’t sugar-coat it for you! As soon as you step out of a gorgeous and awe-inspiring cafe that’s decorated with handmade rugs, wall hangings, and artwork, you’re back out into the streets that are lined with litter and dogshit. (To be fair, there’s an equal amount of stray cats as there are stray dogs, so it’s probably catshit as well.)

The dusty part is kind of the name of the game, after all, this is a desert. We just entered a heat wave where daily temps are almost triple digits, and the breeze that comes through feels similar to an oven blast. I don’t mind all of that, though. The ocean isn’t far, and I remember all too well the bitter cold of winter and spring in England this year. I’ll take triple digits any day.

So even though this place isn’t turning out to be quite what we were anticipating, there is still so much that we’ve experienced and enjoyed. To name just a few:

• The weekly souk is small but mighty. The fresh fruits and veggies are overflowing from the stalls and I’m reminded sweetly of my favorite nights in Barva, walking through la Feria with Maikol and Shelbie. (Nathan even tried an oyster for the first time, caught fresh that morning for the souk, thanks Mo!)

• The people are so warm. I was blown away by the disposition of most everyone we’ve met here. Exuberant, friendly, and eager to know who you are, or how they can make your experience here just a little more special.

  We’ve gotten so many insights and recommendations from people, and it’s even starting to feel like we’re apart of the community when Ismael, the boy who sells us fruits and veggies throughout the week, teaches us a new number in Darija. Or the butcher, who doesn’t speak a lick of English, laughs as we try to figure out how much ground beef to get, and he too, teaches us a mix of French and Darija so it’s just a bit easier next time we order our kefta.

• We broke bread yesterday with a new friend staying at the same guest house as us. Jimmy is from Lyon, France, and we quite literally broke bread, passing it around the table ripping off pieces to go with our kefta and lime harissa pasta (a new recipe that Nathan has perfected). It was a perfect way to round out week one, laughing and playing cards and admiring the sun dropping down to meet the ocean, a huge orange coin breaking through whispers of blue cloud.

• The universe is working in mysterious ways. I believe wherever I’m at, in any given moment, is for a reason. And that doesn’t stop just because I don’t love a place. I’ve spoken several things to light this past week, and been blown away by the turnaround, even as low as an hour!

So my resolution for the weeks to follow is this: make the most of it, spend more time in the ocean (it’s right there!) and start bringing my camera wherever I go. One day this will be an epic story I’ll want to remember.

No worries! Or as they say here, machi mouchkil ㅤ♡ㅤㅤ

-Lau